At this point the ancillaries that could not be removed easily whilst the engine was in the car were dealt with. The starter motor, oil filter and distributor could be easily removed. Also the gearbox was slackened and gently slid off the clutch. This gearbox was a 4 speed type and was to be replaced by a 4 speed + overdrive unit.
Because the engine was a re-manufactured item that had only covered 25,000 miles since installation, it was decided that inspection and gasket replacement was all that needed to be tended to. Therefore the rocker cover was removed and the cylinder head loosened and taken off. The sequence of nut slackening is important so as not to put too much pressure on a certain part of the head and cause it to crack.
The engine was then thoroughly degreased and washed down, removing all old paint with the cup brush on an angle grinder.
On removing the clutch cover, it was found that the clutch was quite worn and, had been expected, was best replaced whilst the engine was out. An original equipment Borg & Beck clutch was purchased and also an invaluable clutch alignment tool (made from plastic) to ensure the gearbox could be slid on easily on reconnecting to the engine.
The head was replaced with it's new gasket and clean surfaces. Again the sequence of tightening was followed thoroughly
The heater casing, as mentioned before, had suffered quite a lot from surface rust and was taken to be shot blasted before being painted with many coats of rust inhibiting primer and two final coats of black.
The heater core was found to contain much rust and was flushed out by simply connecting water from a hose and pumping it through one way and then the other (for about 40 times) until the water turned from dark brown to clear.
All screws, clips, foam and grommets were renewed and original labels were available that made the heater look as good as new. The hardest job was to actually replace the heater in the firewall, requiring one person in the cockpit keeping the heater control cable tight, whilst another in the engine bay wriggles the heater into it's hole.
At this point the master cylinders for the clutch and brakes, which had been new items recently, were replaced, along with their mounting and pedal-box covers that had been cleaned to bare metal and repainted using zinc primer and black satin paint.
The carburettors were soaked and cleaned of all grease and dirt before having the jets, gaskets, and needles replaced. The air filters were upgraded to 3" K&N filters and so the needles were upgraded also to No.6 Needles which provide a richer fuel supply in proportion with the increased air intake.
Electrical, fuel and brake lines were bent and clipped in place and all the work that was easier to do without the engine in was completed, thus the car was ready to accept the revitalised engine and gearbox.
Once the unit was positioned correctly in the car, held by the hoist and jack, the bolts and plates could then be fitted with ease. Whilst securing the bolts, it can be easy to forget the ground strap so ensure a good paint-free contact on both ends. The gearbox cross-member was reasonably hard to fit, if only because of the many combinations of orientations the support brackets allow. It is best to lower the gearbox as far as it can go, to allow ease of installation. At this point connect up the electrics for the reverse lamp and the overdrive (if applicable) before raising the unit and bolting to the chassis.
The following steps are simply installing all the engine ancillaries, such as carburettors, radiator, and oil cooling and filtering system.
The engine turned over with ease, however it didn't fire. The choke cable was pulled out and again attempted. Again turning but no fire. However, with the switch held down and the engine turning over, the distributor was gradually turned by hand. Suddenly life came into the engine and it started to chug along, albeit roughly!
After watching in amazement the engine I'd never seen run - running I noticed how high the idle speed was - around 2,000 rpm. In gradually releasing the choke the engine would not get below 2,000 rpm without stalling. This gave the impression of an air-leak in the intake manifold or elsewhere. The carburettors were removed and everything bolted up tightly. Also the brake servo hose from the intake manfold was removed and blanked off. On removing the front carburettor it was found that the jet bearing, altering the richness of the mixture was sticking, and so this was replaced with a new item.
Again, the engine was turned over, and fired first time. The choke was gradually released and an idle speed of around 1,500 rpm could be achieved without stalling. A dynamic timing stroboscope was then used to fine tune the timing, which ended up being able to run the engine smoothly at 900 rpm! The brake-servo hose was then reattached and the idle went up again, so a leak in the air filter of the unit was diagnosed and this item replaced. On reconnection, the engine ran perfectly.